In an ultra-technological world where daily
life is increasingly dematerialised, Karl Lagerfeld puts humans back at
the centre of everything by making "Intimate technology" the theme of
his collection. His vision celebrates a woman walking through kilometres
of cables, metallic racks and computer cabinets: she is the very heart
of the Data Center CHANEL, she who is the final word and the
mistress of this digital universe. This season more than ever, with
grace and tenderness, femininity takes control in a collection that
allies the audacity of lingerie and the comfort of tweed. The
Spring-Summer 2017 CHANEL woman wears her babydoll and negligee in silk
and lace. And over that she nonchalantly sports a tweed jacket with
rounded shoulders, long sleeves and wide lapels, and a pair of culottes
zipped at the front and back. She wears a robot-clutch.
Her
modernity is affirmed with new details through "new materials and a
wardrobe that is not classic at all", says Karl Lagerfeld. Touch
fasteners replace buttons, braiding becomes a thick jersey cable; woven
multi-coloured tweeds include rubber strands and vinyl strips; cotton,
denim and wool threads line up like countless electronic cables; collars
and cuffs are swathed in embossed translucent gauze. Explosions of
colour are everywhere over backgrounds of blue, red, yellow, pink,
purple, black and navy, a mix of pastels and electric shades. This
contemporary energy is equally diffused over caps in silk or tweed,
sleek clutch bags in perforated silver leather, flat shoes with cross
over straps, and the big pendant necklaces that resemble ID badges, held
on with a snap hook.
As if hastily
pulled on, the unlined jackets and big coats in tweed, as light as
knitwear, are worn over long skirts and pleated blouses. They alternate
with slightly asymmetric jackets, accompanied by zip-up skirts with flat
pleats that reveal silk and lace shorts beneath. The new Gabrielle bag
suggests a new way to be worn: its double straps are slipped on around
the head like a sweater, and nonchalantly border the neck and shoulders,
as would a long necklace. Cotton voile gracefully envelopes coats and
immaculate dresses, punctuated with ruffled edge camellias. A full skirt
in cotton voile is embellished with an entirely pleated XL camellia.
Technology
comes attired in an unprecedented softness, on blouses with ruffled
cuffs, and silk dresses whose motifs are inspired by the digital world,
or other dresses with huge rounded pockets. It opens the door to an
exquisite femininity, where silk, lace and crepe georgette intermingle
in the most delicate hues of powder, pale pink, candy pink, blush and
peach sashaying through to midnight blue. From there on underwear
becomes over wear:
flat pleat or accordion pleated plastrons are tailored onto underslips and negligees while shell guipure lace petticoats and pyjama trousers in silk and lace cry out to be worn as daywear. Blouses combine touch fasteners, sequins that look like electronic components, feathers and flounces. Evening gowns focus on voluminous sunray pleats, trimmed with marabout.
This
collection turns the spotlight on chic lingerie whose elegance
contrasts fiercely with the reality of our automated world. Without the
human hand, without delicacy and savoir-faire, nothing would be
possible. After all don’t two robots wearing two CHANEL suits thus
prove, perhaps, that more than any technological breakthrough, it is
femininity that truly transcends time?
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