Dundas' Music Man

On the first day of Milan's men's fashion week, the industry's top editors filled the baroque armchairs and brocade divans of Milan's Napoleon-era Palazzo Crespi to catch a glimpse of what would mark Peter Dundas' first menswear collection – made under the auspices of the Roberto Cavalli label.

After a lukewarm reception from the industry after his first women's wear show for the label in September, Dundas showed he was settling into his own skin at the house and is determined to deliver his own message.



"I wanted to be true to myself. It really had to be my message," Dundas said after the show, in between warm greetings from the industry's most powerful players.

Across the board, the Fall/Winter collection was a tribute to music, especially from the 60s and 70s and the sounds of legends like Mick Jagger, Jimmy Page, Gram Parsons, and Serge Gainsbourg. Moving through the home's salons to the vocals of The Who and what Dundas describes as "grandma's opera," the collection's sense of bohemia was enhanced by luxury snakeskin patchwork jackets, elaborate crystal beading, and furry Afghan coats.

"It is like a rich meal, but those exaggerated, opulent things were paired with something simple like a worn t-shirt to make it seem more temperate," Dundas said, pointing to his own tee.

Velvet dinner coats, floral-embroidered jackets that Dundas called his "George Harrison," and chiffon blouses were embroidered with crystals, while cross-shoulder leather bags were adorned with studded guitar straps that were reminiscent of the wardrobe worn by the cast of Cameron Crowe's "Almost Famous."  The shaggy-haired models wore roomy jeans and tennies, a look that infused this collection with a boyish feel.

Some editors thought that it was Dundas himself on the catwalk. "I guess the guys who I was trying to convince are guys who resemble myself many years ago," he said laughing when asked if it was really himself he aimed to emulate on the runway.

The Crespi residence, with its Canalettos and lavish chandeliers, is an architectural Milanese marvel and underscored Dundas' efforts to address an aristocratic rebel.



"This is a place where I could imagine this kid being some kind of aristocrat that takes pointers from his amazing rock star dad...Only he is wearing those looks with his trainers and old jeans.  It's a nice contrast."

But dressing the rebellious aristocrat is not new for the Norwegian-American designer, whose eye-popping gowns made him the toast of the Hollywood red carpet on several occasions.
When he debuted with his first Pucci collection in 2009, he was quoted by WWD as saying it "conjured images of young, rebellious aristocrats with a carefree style. But I also added a Baroque and rock ’n’ roll vibe."

There were some androgynous, poetic ensembles finished with whimsical scarves that reminded us of some of Gucci's Alessandro Michele's collection. But Dundas was concrete in echoing his strategy by addressing the market's appetite for lounge looks with silk robes and pajama pants for both men and women, which was one example of how he demonstrated that, unlike his predecessor Mr. Cavalli, he is more in tune with trends and what young men actually want to wear.

Posted in: