It’s an atmosphere of calm and serenity that emanates from the Grand Palais this Tuesday January 26th.
Within a large neat garden, at the bottom of which sits a beautiful
wooden house, Karl Lagerfeld celebrates nature with the CHANEL
Spring-Summer 2016 Haute Couture collection.
Lightweight
materials and natural colours define this bucolic springtime wardrobe
where embroidery composed from fragments and shavings of wood mingle
with bees embroidered onto tulle or mounted as costume jewellery. Beige,
so emblematic of the House holds pride of place, "Gabrielle Chanel was
the Queen of beige", states Karl Lagerfeld who proposes a large palette
of beiges: ecru, ivory, sand, dove, putty, taupe and mocha.
The
models meander through this islet of greenery with hair coiled into
chignons and cork platform two-tone shoes on their feet. Around their
waists they wear a smartphone pouch to match their outfit.
“The
starting point for this collection was the silhouette”, declares Karl
Lagerfeld. Playing with inverted volumes he focuses on short tweed
jackets with oval sleeves, worn with long pencil skirts, or fitted
jackets coupled with full skirts or flared culottes.
With every passing look, the delicacy of the materials is illustrated on blouses, skirts and ethereal dresses. Chiffon is deftly worked into flat, "drum", "peacock" or "January" pleats, while lamé organza is twisted into regular pleats.
For evening the silhouette opts for strapless dresses
or trousers with a train complemented by painted capes with
rhinestones, wide-cut boleros or embroidered jackets. Satin charmeuse
dresses, backless or with a plunging décolleté, have a loose line. The
ode to nature continues with a dress whose sleeves are embroidered with
feathered bees, a countrified dress embroidered with little flowers and a
sheath dress embroidered with wooden birds.
Queen
of this rediscovered nature, the bride appears dressed in a geometric
lace strapless dress embroidered with bursts of chiffon, leather, wood
shavings, beads and rhinestones, kept warm by a hooded jacket with a
train.
An Haute Couture collection
applauded by the actresses Diane Kruger, Gwyneth Paltrow, Monica
Bellucci, Cara Delevingne and Marine Vacth.
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