The old adage “there is nothing new under
the sun” was turned on its head at the Christian Dior haute couture
show on Monday. Designer Raf Simons reached back into the past and
cherry-picked symbolic silhouettes of bygone eras and then proceeded to
give them a futuristic spin. It made for a combination that felt
revolutionary, provocative and yet completely of the times we live in.
In the silver-mirrored enclosed Dior show space, a visually graphic
scaffolding, painted pristine white, had been erected. The two-tiered
metal runway was then softened further by the addition of a bubble gum
pink carpet that lined the floors and two open staircases. Resulting in a
mise-en-scene that was dramatic and romantic in equal parts.
The same could be said for this collection, which was filled with as
many beautiful flower-embellished full-skirted gowns as it was with
vibrant psychedelic multicolored wool bodysuits. The riotous mix of bold
colors, crystal beading embellishments, lace panels and plastic used to
create each thoroughly unique and highly structured mini dress was a
feast for the eye and lovely to behold. As were the impressive patent
leather thigh high-boots (their clear heels soled in shimmering
crystals) and flower-printed plastic rain coats, which finished off many
of the looks. And a shout-out must go to Guiso Palau and his sliced
apart ponytails, that he then reattached with metal rings. It was the
perfect sleek foil to all the impactful ensembles.
It was easy to see the influence not only of Mr. Dior and his bar
suit but also the works of André Corrège, Pierre Cardin (who trained
with Dior) and possibly Bob Mackie for the show's vertical striped
sequined body suits. But even so, each ensemble could never be mistaken
for anyone other than Simons. His sophisticated and unusual combinations
of colors, fabrics and embellishments on meticulously tailored designs
have become his own unique sartorial calling card.
It might be true that it has all been done before, but what made this
collection work was that it culled together the best, or perhaps most
iconic, elements of fashion’s past, and then the designer was able to
envision them in a completely new way. Which brings to mind another old
adage that says, "If we don’t learn from the past we are destined to
repeat it." Simons has clearly been diligent in his fashion history
studies and as such has been able to find a thoroughly original way
forward for Dior.
All photos.
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