RAF SIMONS went back to his sportswear roots and brought them into the world of Dior this afternoon for a collection that very much confirmed and continued the vision we have seen him cultivate since his appointment as creative director of the house in April 2012.
It's one of youth and modernity, Simons marrying respect for the house with a new relevance. It was something we saw at his couture outing back in January when he sent out his gowns teamed with trainers and it was something we saw again today: this was a luxury take on sportswear combined with masculine tailoring and purposefully jarring colourways - blue with green, pink with red, yellow with black.
There came thick lacing down the sides of shapely jackets or climbing up waists of lithe dresses; they later appeared on arms of cape-sleeved coats or hip pockets for a twist on a bustle, before quilting sections of the collection - for skirts mostly - began.
Wavering asymmetrical-to-blunt skirt and dress hemlines continued the sense of jarring and jolting and will no doubt soon be spotted on the likes of Emma Watson, such is Simons's wide wardrobe appeal. Meanwhile double dresses (a short one beneath, a cartoonish silhouette of one on top) slipped off shoulders and boasted sparkling jewels at the top of a striking skirt slit.
In his notes, Simons talked about the city, how women dress in it and a sense of freedom, which accounted then for the emphasis on tailoring over dresses and gowns (it would have been nice to see a few more in fact), and that vibrant and vivid palette. Simons knows where he wants to take Dior and this was an example of how he's rigorously sticking to that.
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