CRUISE, resort, pre-collection: there are many names for the season spliced between spring/summer and autumn/winter, but the unifying theme is: leisure. Pierpaolo Piccioli took that brief literally at Valentino, turning out a collection in New York that hummed with sporting references drawn through a late-Seventies hip-hop filter, inspired by Baz Luhrmann’s Netflix series The Get Down. From the gym socks to the Zandra Rhodes lipstick prints, here are six things you need to know from the Valentino Resort 2018 show.
Take your tracksuit spun with lace
As seen at last week’s Prada resort show, the tracksuit still has style currency. Piccioli reworked it for 2018 in forest and kelly green, racing red and pink, showing little shell suit jackets over Valentino’s signature high-necked, floor-sweeping ethereal dresses and full skirts. Our favourite take? The knitted bubblegum pink jacket with a lace-trimmed scarf.
Update your summer sandals with silk gym socks
Candy-coloured single-soled sandals with studded ankle straps were worn with thin silk gym socks, toughening up every lace confection with an injection of the hip-hop energy that infuses The Get Down.
Bags? Anything goes
From bowling bags to chain-handled evening pouches; studded heart-shaped minaudières to striped saddle bags; denim and linen totes and optic white quilted shoulder numbers: this show was heavily accessorised with every iteration of bag going. Our favourites were the least assuming: small make-up bags the better to show off initial rings that spelt out "make" on one hand and "love" on the other.
The Earring is still a thing
Even the most sober looks - a boxy thick denim jacket and trousers, for instance - came with long, shoulder-grazing earrings. Don't pack yours away yet.
The Cat Eye is back
Chanel, Louis Vuitton and now Valentino: the fashion houses' Cruise collections have varied wildly in aesthetic but the unifying factor has been a thick, winged, black cat eye. Chanel's was lined under the eye, Vuitton's had a futuristic superhero spike, while Pat McGrath at Valentino went full feline with a thick black line that flicked up provocatively.
Lipstick prints are go
Zandra Rhodes collaborative energies continue to inspired Piccioli; her famous lipstick print was splashed across dresses, bags and jackets.
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